Mowzet el kharoof, or stuffed boneless lamb shanks

Food & drink
Arabic boneless lamb shanks, stuffed with apple and bulger wheat

Writing about food is an odd occupation.

To get it right, to write a post that really hits the mark, certain things need to line up perfectly.

There has to be a decent subject, maybe a recipe that really worked, or a good angle on something or other. There has to be a little spark in my imagination as I pound out the words. There has to be that fleeting fraction of a second where a camera shutter opens and captures something that, at the very least, can be salvaged later in Photoshop.

Sometimes all of these things just happen easily, sliding into place as if writing blog posts were the easiest thing in the world, as if this is what I was BORN to do. Other times, getting a post over the line is more of a marathon than a sprint. Sometimes, I stare at a blank screen for an eternity, willing that first line to emerge, blinking from my broken mind.

Occasionally, there are posts that just end up in the bin, because I know when I’m defeated.

You should see my bin.

There’s a whole anti-blog in there.

And sometimes, all of that happens at once.

Firstly, these little lamb shanks tasted IMMENSE. They were seriously good. They deserve not so much a half-arsed blog post as to be written about for centuries to come as one of the finest tasting meals ever experienced on this earth. They deserve immortalising in stone for future generations to discover and read about.  They were that good.

On the other hand, they weren’t particularly photogenic, as you can see above, and that led them to teeter on the brink of the Bin of Broken Promises for a considerable length of time as I internally debated breaking The Golden Rule of food blogging – crap photos equals crap post, don’t do it.

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Timatar wali macchi, or cod in a spicy tomato sauce

Food & drink
SKREI cod curry

The very best cod is caught between January and April in the crystal clear waters around Norway’s Lofoten Islands, having migrated thousands of miles from the Barents Sea.

This cod has bright, white flesh that gleams of the icy, dark waters that the fish swam through to get to Norway. On cooking, it produces huge, firm, pure white flakes, glistening on the fork. It’s a fish of exceptional quality, and holding a fresh portion in your hand, it’s easy to see that quality.

This is fish that looks good, and tastes better – clean, lean, fresh, rich.

The Norwegians designate the very best of this cod with the SKREI label, and it’s this that you should look out for when buying cod at this time of year.

The SKREI I had to hand this week went into a frankly quite beautiful tomato curry. The mild spiciness of an Indian  tomato sauce is the perfect foil to the firm, clean flakes of cod. It’s a lovely combination.

SKREI cod tends to come in big, sturdy chunks, muscular pieces of fish that hold together whilst cooking. This dish will produce an impressive hunk of fish, cooked gently in its sauce and served with basmati rice. You could make this dish with any other white fish, but it’s best with a cut of some thickness. More…

Khadey Masaley Ka Ghosht, or lamb with whole spices and yoghurt

Food & drink
Khadey Masaley Ka Ghosht, or Lamb with whole spices and yoghurt

I was rooting around in the bottom of the freezer the other day when I happened upon a bag of frozen … well, it was definitely meat, but that’s about as much as I could tell.

Could’ve been beef, could’ve been lamb. Might have been neither.

I decided to play fast and loose with Saturday’s dinner, and retrieved the unidentified package for defrosting.

Before anybody starts, I know it should’ve been properly labelled with a date and everything, but really, who actually does that?

The next morning, I prodded the bag, poked it around a little, and gingerly opened it up.

It was mutton. Big chunks of mutton shoulder on the bone. I’d bought it the month before in the hope of making a curry of some sort, but never got round to it. It’s good to have things like this in the freezer, I remember reasoning with myself as I threw the bag of uncooked meat into The Abyss, but probably better to have already cooked curries in the freezer instead.

Sometimes things don’t work out how you expect them to.

So, a curry. One to use up the mutton, and anything else left kicking around in the fridge, which, quite accidentally and conveniently, included a tub of Greek yoghurt and a load of tomatoes.

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Great Homemade Soups: A Cook’s Collection, by Paul Gayler

Books
Great Homemade Soups: A Cook’s Collection, by Paul Gayler

Before I begin, some confessions:

  • I sometimes have soup from a can for lunch
  • I don’t often make a soup from scratch at home
  • When I do, I sometimes freeze whatever’s left, never label it, and end up chucking unidentifiable blocks of frozen matter away countless months later

This is a very poor state of affairs on many levels. Firstly, I work almost within sight of the magnificent Pickles & Potter, with their stunning sandwiches and even better soups. They’ve even taken to turning up in the foyer of our building with big smiles and vats of the most incredible, rich, delicious soups. This ‘but I only keep a can of soup on hand for emergencies’ thing has to stop.

Secondly, my kids seem to be gradually coming round to the idea of soup as an ‘acceptable’ thing to eat, although there are some boundaries (tomato for Lara, chicken for Ethan). Making soup from scratch is starting to make more sense, if the audience is willing.

And thirdly? Well, I really should just label things before I throw them into the frozen wasteland that is our freezer …

This book, Paul Gayler’s Great Homemade Soups: A Cook’s Collection, is a perfect introduction to the dark art of making soup. And a dark art it most certainly is, but one that can be mastered with a little attention to detail and basics. I’ll say it now – STOCK. Making a good soup is all about the base ingredients, and in many, many cases, that means stock – chicken, beef, fish, vegetable. Get that right and you’re going to win.

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WIN a copy of The Taste of America, by Colman Andrews

Food politics
COMPETITION – WIN a copy of The Taste of America, by Colman Andrews

Here’s a chance to win one of two copies of Colman Andrews’ superb book Taste of America.

It’s a fascinating insight into American cuisine, and the food that built and shaped a nation. Here’s my full review.

There are no strings with this giveaway – it’s  exactly that … a giveaway. Just use this form to enter your email address, and if you’re so minded to do like a facebook page or do some twitter related nonsense to earn a couple of extra entries.

Good luck!

To enter, click HERE.