Meat

Moghul lamb with onions and raisins

Moghul lamb or mutton with onions and raisins, by Madhur Jaffrey

Indian and Pakistani food is rich and varied. I’ve cooked countless lamb or mutton curries, each with the same basic method and ingredients, each of which have been vastly different because of subtle differences in spicing and small tweaks in ingredients. The length of the list of spices that go into most curries means that [...]

Food & drink

Mixing up nitrites and nitrates

Mixing up sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate

A few weeks ago, I made some pancetta – cured bacon that was then rolled, tied and dried for three weeks to mature it. Some time later, this comment was posted: I really think you should research what prauge (sic) powder#1 and prauge (sic) powder#2 are used for before you end up making alot of [...]

Food politics

Should you eat rabbit?

Rabbit meat and why we should eat it

Douglas Coupland’s Generation A is a story about a time when all the world’s bees have died and everybody is hooked on a drug that makes them want to be alone. It’s full of Coupland’s characteristic little asides and stories, including one where the highly-politicised, overwrought and transitory girlfriend of one of the characters freaks [...]

Food & drink, Food politics

Confit of rabbit

Rabbit confit

Rabbits are plentiful, sustainable, cheap and healthy*. Cooked properly, they’re delicious. Cooked badly, they’re about as appetising as an old boot. I’ve found that farmed rabbits can be successfully roasted with lemon, rosemary and garlic, but try the same treatment with a lean, muscular wild rabbit and the dish generally ends up in the bin. [...]

Food & drink