The Cross Keys, Holbeck, Leeds

Eating out
The Cross Keys, North Bar’s grown up sibling

It’s not often that I use twitter for something that’s actually useful, but I managed that small victory the other night when I booked a table at The Cross Keys in Leeds.

It was all done quickly and easily, and without any fuss at all – they sorted things out and tweeted me a confirmation. It’s only a small thing, but it really impressed me.

A good sign, I thought.

We went for a drink at another bar before arriving at The Cross Keys.  It was a brilliant bar, absolutely superb, but the barman gave me the wrong volume of the wrong beer, which, being a fool, I paid for and drank.  I got the distinct impression that he wasn’t really listening to me when I ordered, and the slight sneer I got at my temporary indecisiveness when confronted with a bar of a billion different beers didn’t really do much for my opinion of him in the first place, either.

The Cross Keys was completely different.

As soon as we entered through the small front door, a door that makes the place look like a cottage and makes you feel as if you’re barging into somebody’s front room, the barman, busy serving somebody else, said hello.  We waited for a bit, while he finished serving, but a second staff member got there first and took us to a table. He took a drinks order, and took his time explaining exactly what they had on the bar. “Taste something, if you’re not sure”, he said.

No chance of the wrong beer there.

The Cross Keys’ menu is very decent pub food.  You could call it ‘gastropub’ if you believed that awful word had any meaning at all…there are many pubs that serve terrible food, but why do the ones that do better have to have a separate category to themselves?  Why can’t they just be places that serve good food alongside good beer?

Anyway, that aside, The Cross Keys’ menu is great.  I had a starter of black pudding and a poached egg, with new potatoes, which was very good indeed, light and quite earthily brilliant, but not a patch on the huge venison pie I had next – great big chunks of Yorkshire venison, cooked to tenderness in a rich sauce and covered with puff pastry.  It lacked a pair of Desperate Dan-style horns poking out of the pastry, but was otherwise…awesome.

The menu guides the befuddled towards a beer to match each dish, which is a great touch because the bar is well stocked and has lots of variety, which isn’t surprising when you take account of the fact that The Cross Keys is part of the same group as the sublime North Bar at the other end of town.

No sneery barmen here, either.

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How to make croissants

Food & drink
Making French croissants

They look so complicated, with their elegant crescent shape and proudly airy layers of rich pastry, tightly curled up and falling over one another. Breaking one open sends a shower of buttery flakes everywhere and leaves your fingers satisfyingly greasy.

Surely, this type of baking is the preserve of the professional? Or the French?

But, no!

It is possible!

Croissants – good croissants – can be made at home, even by a Yorkshireman of limited continental patisserie related experience.

First of all, a warning.

Yes, it’s a bit of a faff. There’s a lot to do, and it pays to be precise and meticulous. Everything has to be nicely rolled out, squared up, evenly cut, rested, chilled… It takes some planning, and a lot of time, to say the least, but it’s worth it and it’s not particularly complicated once you get the hang of the processes.

So, what’s in a croissant?

Butter. Lots of butter. There’s dough as well, but it’s mainly butter. A shocking amount of butter, actually…all those who’ve harboured a faint hope that a croissant or two represented a healthy breakfast will discover soon that they were wrong.

All a croissant is is a type of laminated dough…butter is rolled out very thinly between sheets of dough, and folded and folded to multiply the layers to make each leaf ever thinner and lighter. The layers explode apart in the heat of the oven, the butter soaked into the dough. It’s wonderfully simple.

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Recipes from the Spanish Kitchen, Nicholas Butcher

Books
Recipes from a Spanish Kitchen by Nicholas Butcher – a reprint of the 1990 classic cookbook, detailing the food of Spain.

This book feels like a rediscovered treasure found once again at the back of a dark attic, loved but forgotten.  Dusted down and spruced up, it suddenly fits again, makes sense again.  You wonder why it was cast aside in the first place, wonder why people stopped loving it.

Recipes From the Spanish Kitchen was first published in 1990, and fell out of print many years ago.

This reprint feels current, it feels vital and alive, and it shows that Butcher’s book was ahead of its time all those years ago, with its focus on quality and regionalism, with heritage and tradition.

Butcher implies early on that defining Spain is a hard task because it’s a country of many variations.  It may be easier to think of Spain, at least in culinary terms, as a loosely formed collective, with each region’s food only bearing a passing resemblance to that of its neighbour.  Nonetheless, there are similarities, as Butcher argues, a deeper underlying thread running through the food of Spain that make it undeniably Spanish.  “Spain stamps its personality, and what a personality it is, ineradicably”.

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How to make parathas

Food & drink
How to make Indian or Pakistani parathas, enriched unleavened Asian flatbreads

A while ago, I spent some time in India, travelling around Rajasthan and the north of the country.  We ended up in the town of Jaiselmer, deep in the Rajasthani scrublands, a place that feels like the very edge of the world.

The big tourist thing to do in Jaiselmer is to hire a guide and trek out on camelback into the Thar desert, spending a night camped out under the stars.  At dinner time, our guide squatted down in front of a fire and made chapatis, turning small balls of dough in his fingers until they became flat disks, widening quickly.  He slapped each chapati on a flat stone sat in the edge of the fire, the embers glowing, heating the rock through. The chapatis blistered and burned, scorched and hissed on the rock, blackening and cooking.

They were rough, coarse, uneven breads, served with a simple curry of chickpeas, carrots and tomatoes.  They could well have been the best chapatis I’ve ever had.

These types of unleavened breads are easy to make, once you’ve got the knack.  It’s about technique and routine. That Indian guide had it in the desert, each chapati the same as the last.

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Indian tomato mutton curry

Food & drink
tomato mutton curry


Our eldest son, is starting to enjoy spicy food.

He now demolishes platefuls of tandoori chicken wings, the spicy kind from the Asian supermarket, and has developed a remarkable tolerance for extra-hot peri-peri sauce.

This is all good, and to be expected from a young Bradfordian.  We know a thing or two about spicy food, you see.

The other one, the little one, is showing no such enthusiasm.  Yesterday, she decided that she could no longer tolerate ham. On pushing, she did concede to liking ham when it was hot, but not cold. I mean, seriously, what on earth?

This curry was an attempt to cover all bases.  It tastes Indian, it looks Indian, but its spicing comes from places other than the chilli plant.  What we’ve got here is a fragrant lamb and tomato stew, with distinctly Asian overtones, something that’s mild, accommodating, but still packed with flavour and body.

I love my chilli, but I also enjoyed this.

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