The process of cooking fascinates me, the way in which things change and transform under the eye and hand of a cook, how they become something more than they started out as. I realise the gulf in technique and understanding between an enthusiastic amateur and the professionals … I cook a lot, but I merely dabble in a world that immerses others, that becomes their whole life and their calling.
To be the best, the very best, requires dedication and perseverance, but also superhuman levels of skill and inventiveness. Cooking is both a science and a creative art. It sits right at the junction of procedure and innovation. Both are vital to create something truly good, something truly astonishing … a clear understanding of how ingredients work and the spark of inspiration that guides them to be handled and put together in a certain way.
These culinary magicians are few, scattered wide. One such master is Ferran Adria, three star Michelin chef of the recently closed El Bulli in Roses, Spain. El Bulli ran a six month season, taking eight thousand reservations in a single day in January, eight thousand reservations from two million requests. The lucky few were cooked for in services of fifty by a brigade of forty of the world’s best chefs, forty magicians, working in a regimented production line, arms and hands moving in perfect precision, constructing, building, creating.
For the other six months, Adria closed El Bulli down, packed up its gear, its whole kitchen and moved it two hours south to the magnificent city of Barcelona. It was here, with the city’s wonderful, intoxicating markets as backdrop and muse, that Adria and his close team of trusted lieutenants developed the next menu. They scoured the city, propping up tapas bars, thinking and plotting, quizzing stall holders about their produce, try to tease the secret calendar of catches out of a fishmonger, endure the mocking of a grocer at their request for six grapes – just six. “Why buy a kilo? We’re just experimenting”. The market traders know them and their game, know what they need.





