Food and drink, recipes and cooking

Pain au Levain, or a basic French-style sourdough

French sourdough

I used to think that sourdough had to be, well, sour … that it had to have a deep, acidic taste that almost made you wince. The more sourness, the better, and my trick was to let the dough rise for extraordinarily long periods of time, to let the acidity that’s a by-product of fermentation [...]

Food & drink

Toasted coconut ice cream, and a brand-new scoop

Toasted coconut ice cream

The quest for ever weirder ice cream flavours continues … After the olive oil ice cream from the other week, we’ve now got coconut, and it’s actually quite good – coconut intensified through a little gentle roasting to bring out its essential nuttiness, then used as an infusion in a standard ice cream base. Couldn’t [...]

Food & drink, Kitchen gear

Moroccan-style sardines

Battered sardines

The only way I’ve ever cooked sardines is by grilling them, throwing salt at them and then squeezing liberal amounts of lemon juice over the charred skins. It’s a classic meal that calls for fingers and creates mess. This is a slight alternative, with a Moroccan tinge, but there’ll still be a mess, because the [...]

Food & drink

Cold off the press – olive oil ice cream

How to make ice cream with olive oil

There’s no getting away from it, so I might as well just get this over with straight away – olive oil in an ice cream sounds downright odd. Perhaps it’s the idea of an oily dessert, or maybe the combination of oil and cream that does it, but there’s something about the very idea of [...]

Food & drink