Food and drink, recipes and cooking

Slow-roasted, char-grilled, very big beef ribs

Slow-roast, char-grilled barbecue beef short ribs

I was at the market the other day. I’d gone for some sausages, but left with a handful of pig’s ears (more on which later), some pork belly, a ham hock, a kilo of mutton and a huge tray of beef ribs, about 5kg of mammoth ribs, each about a foot long and loaded with [...]

Food & drink

Tasso ham – first steps in smoked meat

Smoked Cajun Tasso ham

Preserving meat … sounds like something that could go badly, botulism-riddled wrong, doesn’t it? Charcuterie is a a slightly daunting area, and it isn’t an undertaking to be taken lightly. I’m nowhere near ready to cure and air-dry a whole leg of pork, or equipped to maintain the specific temperature or level of humidity suitable [...]

Food & drink

Panmarino, or Italian rosemary bread

Panmarino, or Italian rosemary bread

I made a pain au levain the other week, a French sourdough shaped like a torpedo, and full of glorious air holes, encased in a brittle crust. It was a textbook example of why ‘slow is best’ when it comes to baking bread. The levain, or starter, was set up the night before, giving it a [...]

Food & drink

The spoils of war, or blackberry and apple jelly

Blackberry and apple preserve, jam or jelly.

I’ve become obsessed with keeping the exact location of the best blackberry bush in the whole of Shipley a secret, even going to the trouble of deleting the geotags from a photo I took of the view when I was stood right next to it. I swore the kids to absolute secrecy. They won’t talk. There [...]

Food & drink

Finnish pulla buns

Finnish Pulla buns

Here’s something a little different – a sweetened dough from the Nordic countries, particularly Finland. It’s the Northern European version of brioche, a bread dough packed with butter and sugar, stuffed with a variety of fruits, creams and spices, as the baker sees fit. Pulla buns are best made as enormous, fist-sized wedges, each looking [...]

Food & drink