La Rue, Saltaire

Eating out
La Rue restaurant Saltaire

French?

Well, no, not really…more like one of those ‘modern British’ places.  There’s a lot of belly pork, lamb, black pudding and the like, with the odd Mediterranean dish and some Asian flavours here and there, too.  Mainly though, think classic British ingredients and you’ll be close to the mark.

It’s been there for years, hasn’t it?

Yes, absolutely forever.  La Rue is as much a part of Saltaire as the Mill’s chimney, the four stone lions and traffic jams at the roundabout.

Is it good or is it just banking on its reputation?

Nothing of the sort.  It’s surprisingly good, and consistently so.

I’ve eaten there several times over the years, and it’s always been OK – decent cooking, nice atmosphere, etc, etc, but this time, it seemed like the kitchen had stepped up a gear and really got stuck in to their menu.

I ordered a starter of hash brown, black pudding and bacon, which I fully expected to be something hearty, messy and perhaps a little thrown together, but what I got was a fresh potato cake packed with herbs sat on top of a slice of very good black pudding with a perfectly poached egg on top, covered with a hollandaise type sauce with chunks of crisply fried bacon around the edges.  It looked like it had been put together by somebody who had an eye for putting together a plate of food, and it tasted great.  Uncomplicated, yes, but very tasty.

The rest of our food was similarly good, including a properly cooked piece of chicken and a crème brûlée that cracked open with the slightest tap of a spoon, instead of the industrial drill you normally need to get into such things.

More….

What’s that pasta really called?

Food & drink

What kind of pasta is on my plate?
What kind of pasta is on your plate? by Charming Italy

Ever thought about pickling a watermelon rind?

Food & drink
Momofuku watermelon rind pickle

It’s good to be frugal, but there are times when frugality goes too far and tips over into just plain old stupidity.

This recipe falls just to the right side of OK – pickling a watermelon rind, you know, the green part that gets chucked on the compost pile, sounds ridiculous, and it would be, if the result wasn’t so good.

It’s one of those ‘silk purse out of a sow’s ear’ type of recipes…something unpromising transformed into something worth eating. On top of that, it only takes a couple of minutes to put together, so for the cost of a few hundred millilitres of vinegar and a handful of spices, it’s worth making good use of something that would otherwise just end up in the bin.

First of all, you need watermelon rind, which means you need a watermelon, a big, basketball-sized specimen should do it.  Eat the red flesh, but save half of the rind, peel some of the toughest green rind away and chop it up into two centimetre square pieces.

More pickling here…

The Source at Leeds Kirkgate Market

Food politics
The Source at Leeds Kirkgate Market

A few weeks ago, I wrote a piece for The Culture Vulture about Leeds Kirkgate Market and what I thought was the matter with it. It generated a fantastic debate and some great comments from a wide range of people who had plenty to say – good and bad – about the market, its purpose and where it should be going in the future.

It’s clear that the market has a lot of supporters, but that it has problems engaging with people properly, and fails to attract a new clientele. There are many reasons for that, and if you’re interested, have a look at my original piece here, and particularly at the brilliant comments at the end.

Things are starting to happen now, and this weekend saw the launch of a major new initiative in the market.

The Source, sited near one of the market’s busiest entrances, will be a focal point for information about the great food on offer in Kirkgate. It’s based in one of the stalls in the beautiful 1904 market hall, which has been fitted out to be a multi-purpose space suitable for cooking demonstrations, tastings, promotions and market research.

It’s a place where people will be able to find out more about the food the market has to offer, and how to get more out of it.

Nick Copland, Brand Director of Shelf Life, the food marketing company behind The Source says, ‘Our objective is to make Leeds Kirkgate Market more famous for food, to focus people’s attention on the great food available throughout the market, to help them find it more easily, to bring new people into the market and to encourage new interest, new traders and new customers.’ [continue reading…]

Pig’s head torchon

Food & drink
Momofuku pig head torchon

This recipe…no, this experiment…caused more trouble than any other I’ve ever made.

The bother started in the butcher’s shop.

I asked for a pig’s head.

The butcher, seemingly used to such requests, went and got a pig head, slapping it down on the block.

It was spotted by the woman behind me in the queue, who screamed.

I asked her what was wrong and she told me that she didn’t like to think of pigs having heads.  I asked her what she thought they had where their heads should be and she mumbled something about not wanting to think about it.  All the while, the butcher stood there rolling her eyes and giving me a knowing look.

So, I went home with a pig head in a bag.

Four quid.

Bargain.

More this way….