Good Things to Drink with Mr Lyan and Friends, by Ryan Chetiyawardana

Books
Good Things to Drink with Mr Lyan and Friends, by Ryan Chetiyawardana

WHAT:

This is a book about cocktails, and how to make them. It’s by the brains behind a couple of London’s most exciting cocktail bars, the sort of places where the weird meets the wonderful in a glass.

WHY:

Cocktails are a dark art, an art that’s ripe for demystification.

That’s exactly what Good Things to Drink with Mr Lyan and Friends does – it sets out in scientific detail how to build and construct some stunning and complex drinks.

This is about more than just slamming some gin, tonic and a slice of lemon in a glass and hoping for the best. This is about pushing things out there a bit, about trying to bring some of the knowledge honed in high-end and professional cocktail bars within reach of the home mixologist, and it definitely succeeds in doing that.  More…

Ox Club, Leeds

Eating out
Ox Club, Leeds post image

Way, way back, I used to have a Saturday job in the centre of Leeds.

This mainly involved constantly folding jumpers and failing to stop shoplifters, but it gave me one precious hour at lunchtime to wander in a big, arcing circle around the city, from one record shop to another.

I’d inevitably end up in Crash on the Headrow, and I’d walk past the single most terrifying sight in the whole of Yorkshire: Big Lil’s Saloon bar.

Tucked away down an alley, with a resident collection of violent-looking men ready to explode loitering outside, the place scared me to death. It closed in 2004, to absolutely nobody’s surprise, following a long and notorious run of trouble that culminated in a murder.

Let’s just say that it wasn’t the nicest of places and leave it at that.

The building stood derelict for a decade before catching the eye of the people behind the superb Belgrave Music Hall, who re-opened it as Headrow House, a multi-purpose venue, with a couple of cocktail bars, a roof terrace complete with R.E.M lyrics immortalised in red neon, a beer hall, gig space, and a restaurant.

Even in a city of such regular bar and restaurant openings (seriously, all the time), Headrow House stands out as something different, conjured up from a huge, rotting warehouse-sized space hidden between the main shopping streets that few knew existed, cleaned-up and fitted out in that slick, bare brick, metal and wood industrial look that plays oh-so-well in old industrial buildings.

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Pork belly braised in beer, with Cajun spices

Food & drink
Pork belly braised in beer, with Cajun spices

It’s good to plan ahead, and it’s even better to have something substantial sitting in the fridge ready to go for those ‘look, it’s been a long day, can’t really be bothered cooking anything at all’ kind of nights, of which, in December there are oh-so-many.

It’s a busy time of year, and I feel as if I’m being wrenched all over the place, balancing this with that and sometimes failing at everything. I don’t suppose that sense of busy-ness is helped by being married to a vicar. They tend to be run off their feet in December, perhaps understandably, what with the whole upcoming virgin birth celebration thing.

There’s a tax return to do in the middle of all this, too.

I often find that the best way to cut through all of this mayhem is to take things ultra-slow.

Really slow.

As slow as possible.

I read a superb book this year, by Carl Honore, called In Praise of Slow: How a Worldwide Movement is Challenging the Cult of Speed. It describes the ‘slow’ movement, which aims to ratchet things down a notch and enjoy life a little more simply.

It’s an influential and important read, and I think of it often, mainly when my laptop collapses under the strain of trying to wrangle eight spreadsheets and a conference-load of Powerpoints all at the same time.

Stop.

Relax.

Do one thing at once.

Whoever made up that rubbish about people being able to multitask was completely wrong – people multitask even worse than Windows PCs.

Cooking is an obvious way of putting some of these slow principles into action. Here’s a recipe that will produce, when the time comes to put it together, when you’ve battled through the driving, freezing rain, stumbled in through the front door, trod on the cat, and shed your dripping coat, a delicious meal in a few minutes.

The key is preparation and planning. You need to think ahead, but a little planning will pay huge dividends.

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WIN: a massive box of Hotel Chocolat chocolates

Food politics
WIN: a massive box of Hotel Chocolat chocolates post image

Here you go, a chance to win a huge box of very good festive themed Hotel Chocolat chocolates, because: Christmas.

‘The Christmas Wreath Box’ is described in the marketing as “a show-stopping festive centrepiece to gather round and share this Christmas. Filled with 43 delicious Christmas truffles, a chunky cookie wreath and two large chocolate snowflakes, one cast in salted caramel and the other in 85% dark”, and it is indeed quite impressive, and worth £42, but free to one lucky Interweb surfer!

Hotel Chocolat have a place in Leeds, and have just moved their shop in York right into the heart of Stonegate. It seems fitting that York, which has a fairly impressive chocolate-steeped history itself, should be home to a Hotel Chocolat.

Entering is easy – just fill in the form after the break below. The draw will close at midnight on Tuesday, 15th December, and the winner will be notified by email. Entries open to UK residents only. Sorry, rest of the world.

Best of luck, and Happy Christmas.

Click here to enter…

Vietnamese noodle salad with rib of beef

Food & drink
Vietnamese salad

So, I’d made this Vietnamese-style noodle salad with a rib of beef, and Tweeted a picture, and Rich asked me to write a post about it for his blog. I agreed (I was quite chuffed actually but don’t tell him) and he gave me access details and then I forgot about it. Time passed and I was in my local butcher’s shop and saw the beef ribs and I thought “I must buy that, marinate it , cook it, make the salad and then write about it for Rich’s blog.” So I did. Except for the bit where I wrote about it for Rich’s blog. But now I have. I hope that you’ll try it – don’t be put off by the ingredient list –  it really is a splendid way to do something different with a decent bit of beef. Traditionally, you’d do this with steak, but this version allows for larger scale catering without the last minute meat-cooking. It’s lighter than the usual roast beef accompaniments and absolutely giddy with the fragrance, heat and pungency of nuoc mam cham sauce. Oh my, what a dressing.

Ingredients:

1 rib of beef, on the bone

For the marinade:
1 bird’s eye chilli
2 garlic cloves
Fresh ginger or galangal root – about the length of your thumb
The juice of a lime
2 stalks lemongrass
2 kafir lime leaves
Fish sauce – probably about 3 tablespoons
Shrimp paste – a teaspoon
A glug of oil to loosen it all up, something not too strong – vegetable oil or groundnut oil. For the love of God, not olive oil. Are you reading, Jamie Oliver? Not olive oil. Where are the olive groves of the Mekong Delta? Nowhere. I don’t want to get bogged down in authenticity, but that’s a big hint about the role of olive oil in South East Asian cuisine. Sorry, I’ll crack on, shall I?

For the salad:
Rice noodles – enough to feed the number of people for whom you’re cooking
Fresh Thai basil (top tip: you can get the same aniseed flavour by mixing Mediterranean basil and tarragon)
Fresh coriander
Fresh mint
Fresh rau ram, if you can find it – don’t fret if you can’t.
Half a cucumber
Cherry tomatoes
Spring onions

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