Meat

Lamb shawarma, or Mother’s Day lunch

A Middle Eastern street food classic, a lamb shawarma – spicy, subtle and wonderfully rich meat, served in pitta bread.A Middle Eastern street food classic, a lamb shawarma – spicy, subtle and wonderfully rich meat, served in pitta bread.

It’s Mother’s Day today. It’s a bittersweet experience, the pleasure of seeing our kids with their homemade cards and bunches of daffodils tinged with the regret of not being able to give my own mum the same things, not being able to hug her and tell her I love her any more. It gets easier [...]

Food & drink

Horse meat, and where your food comes from

Where does your meat come from? Horse meat, food provenance, accountability and traceability

The scandal of horse meat being surreptitiously sneaked into a variety of products that should have contained beef continues to dominate the news, with daily revelations about fraud and generally shoddy practice in the food industry. Today, there have been arrests, and there will be more. This feels like the very tip of a Titanic-sinking iceberg. There’s [...]

Food politics

Pork, sage and black pudding stuffing

Pork, sage and black pudding stuffing

Christmas dinner is a fairly standard meal. Tradition dictates that it mustn’t vary much … turkey, roast potatoes, a couple of vegetables, some things like cranberry sauce that nobody really likes and stuffing. There has to be stuffing of some sort, officially as part of the meal itself, but more importantly to have ready, cold [...]

Food & drink

Rabbit with mustard

Rabbit with mustard, or lapin a la moutarde

Rabbit is vastly under-rated. It’s cheap, tasty, plentiful and versatile, but not very widely eaten. This should change. Rabbit is a superb meat, and it deserves a wider audience because it fits well with the needs of the modern cook – it’s lean and healthy, it cooks quickly and doesn’t take a lot of preparation, [...]

Food & drink