Food and drink, recipes and cooking

Nagoya tebasaki, or deep-fried Japanese chicken wings

Japanese deep-fried chicken wings, tebasaki Nagoya

It’s often the odd cuts of meat  that offer the most interesting possibilities to the chin the kitchen, the parts of the animal that are sometimes viewed as little more that waste in waiting. So it is with chicken wings, piled up high in the corner of a butcher’s shop, looking as if there’s no [...]

Food & drink

How to kill and cook a lobster

How to kill and cook a lobster

Every time I wander through Kirkgate Market in Leeds, I end up walking up the row of fishmongers towards the exit to Vicar Lane, and past the very last fishmonger, the best of the lot, the one with the stall laden with bright, clean fish and shellfish, packed in ice. There’s always a box of [...]

Food & drink, Food politics

Semolina bread

Tartine Bread’s semolina loaf

The more I bake bread, the more I realise that I know so little about it, the more I understand why being a baker is a calling as much as a profession. I’ve started to experiment more, recently, started using different techniques and methods to home in on the things that I really like about [...]

Food & drink

Mowzet el kharoof, or stuffed boneless lamb shanks

Arabic boneless lamb shanks, stuffed with apple and bulger wheat

Writing about food is an odd occupation. To get it right, to write a post that really hits the mark, certain things need to line up perfectly. There has to be a decent subject, maybe a recipe that really worked, or a good angle on something or other. There has to be a little spark [...]

Food & drink

Timatar wali macchi, or cod in a spicy tomato sauce

SKREI cod curry

The very best cod is caught between January and April in the crystal clear waters around Norway’s Lofoten Islands, having migrated thousands of miles from the Barents Sea. This cod has bright, white flesh that gleams of the icy, dark waters that the fish swam through to get to Norway. On cooking, it produces huge, [...]

Food & drink