So, cold isn’t it?
All of a sudden, those rolled pieces of brisket and the big slabs of pork belly in the butcher’s window don’t seem like such a bad idea. Nor do the ox tails, hanging in braces on butcher’s hooks like some sort of skewered alien lifeforms.
Well, never one to shy away from the odder cuts …
The tail of a cow does a lot of work. It’s never still, a simple swatter whose main purpose is to swish backwards and forwards to keep its owner fly free and comfortable. It’s a cut of beef that’s worked hard, and it’s therefore tough. It’s very tough indeed, and it needs careful cooking to tenderise it – long, low, slow.
It must be braised in some form of liquid, the marrow from those plentiful bones melting into a rich and thick sauce. If that liquid is red wine, then so much the better. Add the Holy Trinity of vegetables – carrot, onion, celery – and you can see, smell, sense how this is going to shape up.
First thing’s first. You need an oxtail. Buy a whole one, and have the butcher chop it up for you. Seriously, this is why butchers have those massive cleavers. You aren’t going to get very far doing the chopping on your own, no matter how good your knives are … chopping up an ox tail is a brutal, inelegant job best left to the person with the biggest tool.
Don’t let the butcher fob you off with a load of skinny pieces from the end, either. Buy a whole tail and ask for the thick bits to be cut into two pieces. This is where the best meat and the best marrow is.
It’s possible to make a thoroughly decent stew or casserole with oxtail, but such a thing, good as it undoubtedly is, will in my book always feel like a bit of a let down, as if there’s a part missing.
It needs some pastry.
It’s destiny is to become a pie.





