Food and drink, recipes and cooking

POCO Sicilian, Leeds

POCO Sicilian, Leeds

Last year, we went to Sicily. It was wonderful, a beguiling and fascinating place, riven with history, fiercely hot, passionately intense and honest. We swam in the sea from makeshift pontoons made of scaffolding, drove around the mountains and hills, stood in awe in the middle of a Roman amphitheatre, facing the spectacle of the [...]

Food & drink

Standard Sunday morning waffles

Standard Sunday morning waffles

There are several non-negotiable traditions in our family, and chief among them are Sunday morning waffles with maple syrup. Nothing else, nothing more, nothing less. Waffles and maple syrup. Ever has it been, ever shall it be. I fiddled around with a variety of recipes when we started out on this weekend ritual. I wanted [...]

Food & drink

Smoked and slow-roasted beef short ribs

Smoked and slow-roasted beef short ribs

I started cooking tonight’s dinner this morning at about half past eight, before anybody else was awake, and most importantly, before any of the neighbours had hung any washing out to dry. Short beef ribs take a long, long time to cook, and they’re at their very best when they meet a little smoke. So, [...]

Food & drink

Saag Aloo

saag aloo madhur jaffrey

This is an important dish for me. Its one of the first curries I learnt to make, from an old and battered Madhur Jaffrey book. I used to make it in my mum’s kitchen, and we’d eat it outside on the old wooden table, the one with the benches, in the sun, by the hedge [...]

Food & drink

North African chicken and butternut squash tagine

North African chicken and butternut squash tagine

The best types of recipes use just one pot, the same one right through from the moment the first dice of onion hits hot olive oil right through to its placement at the centre of the table. It’s efficient, streamlined, but to work properly, the pan itself is important, and that’s where heavy, solid cast [...]

Food & drink