roasting

Forerib of beef, roasted with beetroot

November 6, 2009 Food & drink

In the middle of the beef crisis in the UK during the nineties, beef joints including the animal’s bones were banned. You couldn’t buy proper roasting joints anywhere. All beef was sold off the bone, and that was that. My dad had other ideas, and wasn’t about to be scared off by a minor inconvenience [...]

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Lamb breast, stuffed and rolled

October 22, 2009 Food & drink

Part of the challenge of cooking is to make something unpromising into something worth eating. There are few cuts of meat that present as little to the cook as a breast of lamb. Let’s be frank here. This is not an appetising cut. It looks fatty, skinny, full of gristle and just plain unappealing. On [...]

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Slow roasted pork belly with fennel and coriander crackling

October 12, 2009 Food & drink

A pork belly gives a lot of bang for buck. It’s a cheap cut that benefits from simple, hands-off cooking. A few herbs, some salt and pepper and a few hours in a low oven are all you need. First, the joint. A cut from the thick end of the belly weighing between 1 and [...]

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Porchetta, or slow roasted Italian loin of pork

April 29, 2009 Food & drink

The loin of a pig is a magnificent cut of meat, a dense strip of heavy meat flanked by part of the belly and encased in skin destined to crackle, nested in a cradle of bones. As a joint, this has everything. Preparation is simple, and the most important parts happen in the butcher’s shop. [...]

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Yorkshire puddings

March 8, 2009 Food & drink

Yorkshire puddings are a northern classic, famous the world over, but they taste best when made in Yorkshire. Everybody has their own way of making Yorkshire puddings – nobody’s right or wrong. Here’s my version.

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Roasted roe deer

January 18, 2009 Food & drink

In Britain, venison has often been seen as exotic, a rich man’s alternative to beef, probably because of the relatively short supply. Venison only came to market as a by-product of wildlife management and hunting. Farmed venison is now widely available, and is of reasonably good quality, but the wild varieties provide the finest quality, [...]

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