reviews

My Kitchen: Real Food From Near and Far, Stevie Parle

March 19, 2011
Stevie Parle's My Kitchen: Real Food From Near and Far

“The truly delicious things are not always those that cost a fortune, but those that have been passed from generation to generation; you can taste their integrity.” Stevie Parle’s book My Kitchen: Real Food from Near and Far isn’t constrained by geography.  This isn’t a collection of recipes with a defined focus on a particular […]

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The International, Bradford

March 10, 2011
The International curry house, Bradford

I said the other week that the standard of Asian restaurants in Bradford was on the slide.  It’s not that there aren’t good places out there, it’s just that some of them don’t seem to be trying very hard anymore. I forgot that whenever I say something like that, the opposite is normally proved right, […]

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Can you really review a meal you didn’t pay for?

March 5, 2011
Should food bloggers accept free meals?

I write a lot about restaurants, and I’ve written before about my reservations in doing so, but as this blog has grown (beyond my wildest expectations, it must be said), I’ve been approached more and more often by restaurants who want me to write about and review their places. The basic approach, normally through a […]

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Momofuku, by David Chang and Peter Meehan

December 8, 2010
A review of David Chang's brilliant cookbook, Momofuku

There are things we say in the kitchen, a codified lexicon, that explain some of the kitchen mentality at Ko. “Make it soigne” means make it right and make it perfect. It’s something you hear a lot in traditional French kitchens.  No mistakes, no misunderstandings. Make it the best. Do not fuck it up. It’s […]

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PIN, Leeds

November 13, 2010
Thumbnail image for PIN, Leeds

Leeds Brewery have been quietly expanding in Leeds over the last few years. They’ve now got four pubs and bars, each with a distinct identity and reason. PIN is their ‘contemporary cafe bar’, a small bar and restaurant tucked away on Dock Street, just over the river. Given that PIN is a Leeds Brewery bar, […]

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Il Leoncino, Centro Storico, Rome

October 23, 2010
Thumbnail image for Il Leoncino, Centro Storico, Rome

The Romans have a slightly different way with pizza. Their bases are thin and crisp, in contrast to the softer and fuller Neapolitan style. A good Roman pizza will crack at the edges when you bend it, and if it’s cooked properly, the edges will be scorched. Finding a decent pizza in Rome isn’t difficult […]

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