pork

Goan-style pork vindaloo

March 13, 2011 Food & drink

This is it. This is the most abused, mistreated and misrepresented curry in the whole of the world. There isn’t another Asian dish that comes close to this one in terms of how people view it. Its reputation is right down there in the gutter. A vindaloo is nothing more than a macho challenge after [...]

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Cochito chiapaneco, or Mexican chilli-seasoned pot roasted pork

February 21, 2011 Food & drink

Pork cooked slowly for a very long time in chilli? Sounds like a good idea, right? Here’s how to do it. You’ll need some dried chillis to start with – two medium anchos and four medium guajillos. Both of these varieties are the work horses of the Mexican kitchen. The ancho has a smokey, mild [...]

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A rich and spicy barbecue glaze for pork spare ribs

February 12, 2011 Food & drink

This is a very optimistic recipe for this time of year. It’s got an eye firmly on the summer, but somehow, its heat and warmth don’t feel completely out of place in the depths of February. Maybe that’s because there’s never a bad time for pork. This barbecue sauce is very quick to make. It’s [...]

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American turkey stuffing

December 22, 2010 Food & drink

It’s getting close to Christmas now, and it’s about this sort of time that I start to panic about stupid things like deciding which type of stuffing to make. I’ll spend an hour or so scattering cookbooks around the dining room, looking for something new and different to cook on the stuffing front. There’ll be [...]

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How to make pancetta

November 17, 2010 Food & drink

I’ve skirted around the edges of this recipe for a while now. It’s not really a recipe, as such…it’s more of a chemistry experiment that involves taking something a bit bland and mediocre, adding some other stuff to it and miraculously transforming it into something that’s way better than the sum of its parts. It’s [...]

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A raised country game pie

September 15, 2010 Food & drink

On rooting through the freezer, I found a pack of mixed game – pigeon breasts, venison and rabbit – right at the back. Now, I must make it clear that, whilst the fact that I’ve got game meat in my freezer sounds quite grand, I’m not some sort of country gentleman who shot this meat [...]

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How to make a Scotch egg that’s a cut above the rest

August 30, 2010 Food & drink

I don’t think I’d be doing the humble Scotch egg an injustice to suggest that it’s got a bad reputation. The true horror of the mass produced Scotch egg, mainstay of the wet British picnic, can be found in any supermarket in the land. Dull, grey, under seasoned meat hugging an overcooked egg, the whole [...]

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Tod man mu, or spicy Thai pork meatballs

August 18, 2010 Food & drink

It’s strange that most cuisines have some sort of variation on the humble meatball, and I think it’s a little sad that we Brits don’t think more highly of them. There’s a world of things that can be done with this method. This is the Thai version. Tod man mu are heavily spiced little pork [...]

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Dan Birk at The Devonshire Fell, Burnsall, North Yorkshire

March 24, 2010 Eating out

Dan Birk, cooking at The Devonshire Fell restaurant in Burnsall in the Yorkshire Dales, is an up and coming young chef with a great future ahead of him. His food is elegant and unfussy, stylish and well executed. Dan Birk is definitely one to watch.

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