Meat

Getting the most out of game – Fur & Feathers, with Lishman’s, Ilkley

January 22, 2012 Food politics

There’s a lot of mystery around game…hunting it, preparing it, cooking it. It’s all a little bit impenetrable for urban dwellers like me. Despite being essentially a city boy, I’ve cooked with game of various types for many years, but I’ve never really had much hands on experience with it, never shot or trapped anything, [...]

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Spicy leftover turkey soup

December 26, 2011 Food & drink

If Christmas Day brings the biggest meal of the year, it follows that Boxing Day must leave the most leftovers. Nobody – NOBODY – gets this right. The smallest turkey is simply too big for most average Christmas dinner tables, and the size of the bird seems to have a knock-on effect on the number [...]

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How much for that turkey?

December 18, 2011 Food politics

The annual task of sourcing the Christmas Day turkey normally falls to my brother, who being in the trade, knows what he’s looking for and where to get it. Sourcing the turkey and picking it up are separate tasks, and the job of actually transporting Rob’s carefully hunted prize birds usually falls to Dad. Last [...]

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How to make boudin noir

November 16, 2011 Food & drink

You either love blood puddings and sausages, or you hate them. I’ve yet to find anybody who’s simply ambivalent. Sitting on the fence just doesn’t seem to apply here. There are many different versions of blood sausage – the traditional British black pudding contains oats to thicken it, the Spanish Morcella has rice, and this French [...]

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Keevil & Keevil, meat through the post

November 13, 2011 Food & drink

Years ago, walk down any British town’s high street, and you’d find a clutch of entirely predictable shops. A baker, a greengrocer, maybe a fishmonger if you were lucky, and a butcher. The explosive growth of the supermarket and our hunger for the convenience of shopping for everything under one roof with a big car [...]

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Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal, by Jennifer McLagan

November 9, 2011 Books

Go into any supermarket, and most butchers, and there’ll be shelves full of neatly butchered meat, prize cuts of rump, sirloin, tenderloin…the premium parts of the animal. What’s missing is the rest of the beast, all the other parts that don’t make up the standardised, easy to handle, easy to cook cuts that people so [...]

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Slow-cooked beef in stout or porter

October 29, 2011 Food & drink

Right, confession time. This was meant to be a Generic Lazy Blog Post. Oh come on, you know the sort, especially if you write a blog yourself. Sometimes us bloggers hit a brick wall and just don’t know what to write about. We just scratch and scrabble around for something vaguely interesting to cook or [...]

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They eat horses don’t they?

August 24, 2011 Food politics

On holiday in France the other week, we spent a morning wandering round the weekly market in Chablis. There was a little butcher’s van there, a chevaline boucher, a horse meat specialist. I bought a small piece of faux fillet for a couple of Euros, took it home, seasoned it and cooked it. The meat [...]

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The Ginger Pig Meat Book, Tim Wilson and Fran Warde

June 18, 2011 Books

Good meat is important. If you’re going to eat an animal, the least you can do is to make sure that it was treated well when it was alive, and that you use its meat with care and respect. Can you always do this, though? Do you get a clear picture of where your meat [...]

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