Slow cooking in the sand

March 19, 2014
The importance of slowness in food, and food in celebration.

It started with a text message. “Chris says can you pack a tie. You’re off to a wedding or something”. I looked down at the carefully packed bags at my feet and realised that ‘bring a tie’ actually meant ‘bring a whole set of smart clothes, including shoes, not just a tie’, and started to […]

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Mowzet el kharoof, or stuffed boneless lamb shanks

March 10, 2014
Arabic boneless lamb shanks, stuffed with apple and bulghar wheat

Writing about food is an odd occupation. To get it right, to write a post that really hits the mark, certain things need to line up perfectly. There has to be a decent subject, maybe a recipe that really worked, or a good angle on something or other. There has to be a little spark […]

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Braised neck of lamb with apricots and cinnamon

February 25, 2013
Neck of lamb with apricots and cinnamon

Most of the time, I use fairly standard cuts of meat, the usual things that you find anywhere and everywhere, but the advantage of shopping at a proper butcher’s is that there’ll often be some odd bits on offer. This dish revolves around one of those oddities – neck of lamb. Neck isn’t used that […]

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Malai gosht, or lamb or mutton with cream

October 28, 2012
Lamb or mutton with cream, Malai Gosht, by Madhur Jaffrey

Curries made with cream have a richer, silkier feel than those made with yoghurt. The sauce tends to be reduced so that it clings to the meat, a thick coating of intensely flavoured cream encasing chunks of tender lamb or mutton. This is a good curry for those who don’t really like the fire of […]

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Badami rogan josh, or lamb cooked in a dark almond sauce

May 12, 2010
Thumbnail image for Badami rogan josh, or lamb cooked in a dark almond sauce

This version of the classic rogan josh includes ground almonds to both thicken the sauce and give it texture and substance. The curry is made with lamb or mutton shoulder, cut into one inch chunks and browned in hot oil.  Before you start to brown the meat, add ten whole cloves, twelve peppercorns, one or […]

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Very slow roasted shoulder of lamb with merguez spices

November 21, 2009
Very slow roasted shoulder of lamb with merguez spices

A shoulder of lamb is a hefty cut, but it’s cheap and it goes a long way. This method leaves the lamb falling apart, tender from the best part of a day in the oven. It’s very satisfying and relaxing to know that something great is happening in your oven at home whilst you’re out […]

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