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Badami rogan josh, or lamb cooked in a dark almond sauce

May 12, 2010 Food & drink
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This version of the classic rogan josh includes ground almonds to both thicken the sauce and give it texture and substance. The curry is made with lamb or mutton shoulder, cut into one inch chunks and browned in hot oil.  Before you start to brown the meat, add ten whole cloves, twelve peppercorns, one or [...]

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Very slow roasted shoulder of lamb with merguez spices

November 21, 2009 Food & drink
Very slow roasted shoulder of lamb with merguez spices

A shoulder of lamb is a hefty cut, but it’s cheap and it goes a long way. This method leaves the lamb falling apart, tender from the best part of a day in the oven. It’s very satisfying and relaxing to know that something great is happening in your oven at home whilst you’re out [...]

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Lamb breast, stuffed and rolled

October 22, 2009 Food & drink
Lamb breast stuffed with apricots and thyme, rolled

Part of the challenge of cooking is to make something unpromising into something worth eating.  There are few cuts of meat that present as little to the cook as a breast of lamb. Let’s be frank here.  This is not an appetising cut.  It looks fatty, skinny, full of gristle and just plain unappealing.  On [...]

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Bhuna Gosht, or lamb bhuna

June 15, 2009 Food & drink
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‘Bhuna‘ is a particular Asian cooking style where a sauce is reduced and reduced until it is so thick that it just clings to the meat, making the meat appear ‘browned’. Dishes cooked in the bhuna style are rich and pungent, the flavour of the spice mix concentrated down by the fierce reduction of the [...]

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Gosht Achar, or lamb curry

May 10, 2009 Food & drink
Achar Ghosht curry

India and Pakistan are home to some of the world’s best pickles, all types of fruit and vegetables preserved in a fiery mix of spices, citrus juices and oils. The best are little more than sliced chillis with lime, oil, mustard and turmeric. They’ll blow you away. Literally. In Hindi, ‘achar‘ means pickle, and gosht [...]

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Rogan josh, a king amongst curries

March 17, 2009 Food & drink
Rogan Josh

My curry of choice is always the rogan josh. It’s solid and dependable, the backbone of Indian cookery, unpretentious, hot but not overpowering, deeply flavoured and intense. It’s a proper curry. I’ve made variations on the rogan josh with chicken, lamb, mutton and the decidedly unauthentic and borderline sacrilegious beef. Each produces a different result, [...]

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Lamb curry with onions and raisins

October 29, 2008 Food & drink
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A common Indian, specifically Moghal, technique is to cook a lot of onions separately and add them to a curry dish during the last few minutes of cooking. This has the effect of substantially altering the taste and consistency of the dish…the end product is something of a surprise to the diligent cook who has [...]

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Moroccan spiced lamb shanks with aubergine

October 18, 2008 Food & drink
Lamb shanks, Moroccan style, by Nigel Slater

Everybody has a couple of cookbooks that are just a little bit more stained and greasy than the rest, books that have seen more distinguished service than all the others on the shelf. I have two – the distinctly unfashionable Delia’s Complete Cookery Course by Delia Smith, which I grew up with and still refer [...]

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Moghlai Lamb with Spinach (Paalag Gosht)

September 22, 2008 Food & drink
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I’m a huge fan of Madhur Jaffrey’s recipes, which combine great food with a rich appreciation of its cultural context. An understanding of the way food has developed over time adds an extra layer of authenticity, especially with a cuisine as steeped in tradition as that of India. Jaffrey delivers this context flawlessly, combining observations [...]

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