Bundobust, Leeds

August 6, 2014
Bundobust, Indian beer cafe, Mill Hill, Leeds

One word review, please Astonishing. Well, that’s decisive, at least … care to expand? Well, there are few things in life more certain than being disappointed by an over-hyped, over-played and over-done restaurant. It happens all the time – a new place opens, everybody gets all excited about it, but it turns out to be […]

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Timatar wali macchi, or cod in a spicy tomato sauce

February 16, 2014
SKREI cod curry

The very best cod is caught between January and April in the crystal clear waters around Norway’s Lofoten Islands, having migrated thousands of miles from the Barents Sea. This cod has bright, white flesh that gleams of the icy, dark waters that the fish swam through to get to Norway. On cooking, it produces huge, […]

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Khadey Masaley Ka Ghosht, or lamb with whole spices and yoghurt

February 3, 2014
Khadey Masaley Ka Ghosht, or Lamb with whole spices and yoghurt

I was rooting around in the bottom of the freezer the other day when I happened upon a bag of frozen … well, it was definitely meat, but that’s about as much as I could tell. Could’ve been beef, could’ve been lamb. Might have been neither. I decided to play fast and loose with Saturday’s […]

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How hard is it to knock a coconut over? … or chicken, coriander and coconut curry

July 8, 2013
A Keralen chicken, coriander and coconut curry, from Christine Manfield's Tasting India.

It was the school fair on Saturday, and among the bouncy castles, secondhand toy stalls and pop-up cafes selling the most excellent pakora wraps with fiendish chilli sauce, there was a coconut shy. The rules of a coconut shy are very simple – throw a ball at a coconut perched on top of a stake, […]

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Rhubarb, ginger and chilli pickle

May 12, 2013
Rhubarb, ginger and chilli pickle

This time of year always brings the first glut of the season – rhubarb. One day, there’s none, but the next, there are vast parasols shading slender stems rocketing skywards, growing thicker and darker day by day. Rhubarb is the most hardy and forgiving of vegetables, and it is a vegetable and not a fruit, […]

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Prashad Indian vegetarian restaurant, Bradford-Leeds

January 30, 2013
Prashad vegetarian Indian restaurant, Bradford and Leeds, Yorkshire

Prashad has had a lot of hype. I approach hype with a healthy amount of scepticism. I’m good at scepticism – it’s a speciality – and the world of food is littered with things that don’t quite live up to the mark, that aren’t quite as good as they claim to be. For every stellar […]

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