garlic

Why don’t you make your own mayonnaise?

September 25, 2010 Food & drink

The other weekend, I had a bit of an adventure with a couple of crabs. It ended badly for the crabs. Their fate was to be picked over at great length and eaten with bread and a quite superb mayonnaise. The fact that the mayonnaise turned out quite well, or was edible at all, came [...]

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Paella, with chicken, artichokes and oloroso sherry

March 20, 2010 Food & drink

Paella is the cornerstone of Spanish food. This version marries chicken with artichokes and the deep, sweet smokiness of old oloroso sherry. Start by browning 350g of boned and skinned chicken, cut into 2cm chunks in olive oil over a moderate heat in a wide frying pan or paella pan. The chicken doesn’t need to [...]

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Duck prosciutto – the simple art of making your own ham

February 20, 2010 Food & drink

Salt gets a bad press. I know it’s responsible for the untold misery of heart disease, high blood pressure and a thousand other fairly major medical complaints, but it also has a near mythical ability to preserve food and concentrate flavour, the closest thing to culinary alchemy there is. This duck prosciutto, a ham born [...]

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Saag Murgh, or chicken and spinach curry

February 14, 2010 Food & drink

Saag Murgh is a classic Indian combination of spinach and chicken. A Punjabi favourite, and another superb recipe from Madhur Jaffrey.

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Confit of rabbit

February 6, 2010 Food & drink

Rabbits are plentiful, sustainable, cheap and healthy*. Cooked properly, they’re delicious. Cooked badly, they’re about as appetising as an old boot. I’ve found that farmed rabbits can be successfully roasted with lemon, rosemary and garlic, but try the same treatment with a lean, muscular wild rabbit and the dish generally ends up in the bin. [...]

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Possibly the best three-bean chilli in the world?

January 20, 2010 Food & drink

I need to point two important things out before I start: everybody does this differently. This is just my way. Yours may be better. The title of this post is obviously a provocative lie. I’ve no idea what ‘authentic’ is when it comes to this dish. Hot? Mild? Beans? No beans? No idea. This is [...]

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Mangsho jhol, or lamb cooked with onions and potatoes

January 10, 2010 Food & drink

With the temperature outside struggling to reach the heady heights of -2C, the heat and warmth of a good Indian curry has never felt more appropriate. Start with 800g to a kilo of cubed lamb or mutton, preferably off the bone, but if you can cope with the fiddliness of a few bones in your [...]

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Very slow roasted shoulder of lamb with merguez spices

November 21, 2009 Food & drink

A shoulder of lamb is a hefty cut, but it’s cheap and it goes a long way. This method leaves the lamb falling apart, tender from the best part of a day in the oven. It’s very satisfying and relaxing to know that something great is happening in your oven at home whilst you’re out [...]

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Gosht Achar, or lamb curry

May 10, 2009 Food & drink

India and Pakistan are home to some of the world’s best pickles, all types of fruit and vegetables preserved in a fiery mix of spices, citrus juices and oils. The best are little more than sliced chillis with lime, oil, mustard and turmeric. They’ll blow you away. Literally. In Hindi, ‘achar‘ means pickle, and gosht [...]

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