game

Getting the most out of game – Fur & Feathers, with Lishman’s, Ilkley

January 22, 2012 Food politics

There’s a lot of mystery around game…hunting it, preparing it, cooking it. It’s all a little bit impenetrable for urban dwellers like me. Despite being essentially a city boy, I’ve cooked with game of various types for many years, but I’ve never really had much hands on experience with it, never shot or trapped anything, [...]

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Should you eat rabbit?

December 1, 2010 Food & drink

Douglas Coupland’s Generation A is a story about a time when all the world’s bees have died and everybody is hooked on a drug that makes them want to be alone. It’s full of Coupland’s characteristic little asides and stories, including one where the highly-politicised, overwrought and transitory girlfriend of one of the characters freaks [...]

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A raised country game pie

September 15, 2010 Food & drink

On rooting through the freezer, I found a pack of mixed game – pigeon breasts, venison and rabbit – right at the back. Now, I must make it clear that, whilst the fact that I’ve got game meat in my freezer sounds quite grand, I’m not some sort of country gentleman who shot this meat [...]

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Confit of rabbit

February 6, 2010 Food & drink

Rabbits are plentiful, sustainable, cheap and healthy*. Cooked properly, they’re delicious. Cooked badly, they’re about as appetising as an old boot. I’ve found that farmed rabbits can be successfully roasted with lemon, rosemary and garlic, but try the same treatment with a lean, muscular wild rabbit and the dish generally ends up in the bin. [...]

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Pheasant ballotine, stuffed with pork, prunes and pistachios

February 3, 2010 Food & drink

“My father was standing on the edge of the clearing with the moonlight streaming down all over him and a great bunch of pheasants in each hand. His face was bright, his eyes big and bright and wonderful, and he was staring around him like a child who has just discovered that the whole world [...]

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Game: A Cookbook

January 31, 2010 Books

There are a lot of myths about game. It’s hard to get hold of. It tastes strong, sometimes bitter. You’ll crack your teeth on lead shot. You can ruin a dish by cooking it for a few seconds too long. As with all myths, these and most of the rest are completely untrue. Game has [...]

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Roast partridge with chard and bacon

October 30, 2008 Food & drink

These partridge came from the local butcher, and were tucked in between the pheasant and rabbits. It’s officially autumn. Partridge aren’t as intensely ‘gamey’ as some of the larger birds. The meat is much darker than chicken, but isn’t as strongly flavoured as pheasant. It’s a nice compromise. A game bird for people who don’t [...]

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