Food politics

The dawn of the supermarket meat counter

July 21, 2014
The dawn of the supermarket meat counter

“In his way, the meat cutter is an artist”. Here’s a wonderful little American promotional film from the Fifties, that walks through the process of butchering a side of beef into cuts suitable for selling shrink-wrapped in those new-fangled supermarkets. Just look at the marbling on that beef. Try to ignore the naïve sexism about […]

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How to kill and cook a lobster

May 7, 2014
How to kill and cook a lobster

Every time I wander through Kirkgate Market in Leeds, I end up walking up the row of fishmongers towards the exit to Vicar Lane, and past the very last fishmonger, the best of the lot, the one with the stall laden with bright, clean fish and shellfish, packed in ice. There’s always a box of […]

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Semolina bread

March 26, 2014
Tartine Bread's semolina loaf

The more I bake bread, the more I realise that I know so little about it, the more I understand why being a baker is a calling as much as a profession. I’ve started to experiment more, recently, started using different techniques and methods to home in on the things that I really like about […]

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Slow cooking in the sand

March 19, 2014
The importance of slowness in food, and food in celebration.

It started with a text message. “Chris says can you pack a tie. You’re off to a wedding or something”. I looked down at the carefully packed bags at my feet and realised that ‘bring a tie’ actually meant ‘bring a whole set of smart clothes, including shoes, not just a tie’, and started to […]

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The Taste of America, by Colman Andrews

January 6, 2014
The Taste of America, by Colman Andrews

I once rode across America on a Greyhound bus, from the laid-back city of Portland, through the deserts of Utah and back up through the Wild West to the industrial heartland of Chicago and Detroit, then onto Toronto and my Uncle’s spare bedroom for a week of recovery. I learnt two things on that trip, […]

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A Love For Food, Daylesford

November 17, 2013
Daylesford, A Love For Food

I read a lot of cookbooks. There are a couple of hundred on the shelves over there in the dining room, and I’m starting to get to the point where I don’t think many more will be, shall we say, welcome. I can tell a good cookbook from a bad one almost immediately … that […]

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