Saffron Soul, by Mira Manek

Books
Saffron Soul, by Mira Manek

A few years’ ago, there was a public health campaign warning of the dangers of heart disease. It featured a middle-aged everyman who’d let himself go, a couch potato who drank too much. At one point, Everyman shovelled the contents of an Indian takeaway container onto a plate.

The message was clear – drink too much, smoke, don’t exercise, and eat badly, and you’re right in the heart disease firing line.

I remember being surprised by the choice of an Indian meal as the emblematic Evil Takeaway food.

Asian food isn’t that unhealthy, is it?

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Swedish cinnamon rolls

Food & drink
Swedish Cinnamon rolls

A few years’ ago, I did a one-day crash course in baking all things French and croissant related at the wonderful Handmade Bakery in Slaithwaite.

It was a lot of fun, and the batch of croissants I came away with were the best I’ve ever managed, mainly because of the expert guidance on hand to provide a gentle and encouraging nudge back on course when my dough laminations started to go slightly off track.

For lunch, we were given pulla breads, a type of sweet pastry from Finland that’s reminiscent of a brioche, and I’ve mimicked that recipe very successfully. These Swedish cinnamon rolls are another riff on the central idea of a rich, sweet dough, folded back on itself to enclose a filling. It’s a technique that’s simple and easy, a world away from the more precise and regimented discipline required to turn out a batch of croissants worthy of the name.

These rolls are very common in Sweden, and with good reason. They’re excellent heated through gently and served warm with coffee, especially if the day is cold and damp.

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WIN: a hamper of Cloggs Coffee Company stuff

Food politics
Cloggs Coffee Company, West Yorkshire


I’ve spent a little time recently experimenting with different brewing methods, and recently took the plunge and supplemented my trusty Hario hand grinder (the best £25 I’ve ever spent) with a Eureka Mignon, something a little more capable of grinding to a consistent espresso grind. It’s a wonderful machine, and it’s opened up a whole new front in my coffee brewing technique. At last, my ancient Gaggia can sing.

All of this means that beans become more important than ever before, and I’m jumping around from roaster to roaster at the moment. The variety of coffee available in the UK now is astonishing, and there are some beautiful roasts out there.

One of my current favourites is very local, and has a long history of roasting speciality coffee in West Yorkshire.  More …

How to make bresaola

Food & drink
How to cure beef to make bresaola

So, it’s January, and it’s very, very cold at the moment.

That means that now is the perfect time to cure some meat and hang it out to dry in a shed, outside of a refrigerator, without too much fear of death from botulism.

I exaggerate slightly – botulism is very rare, and basic hygiene prevents it anyway, but there’s definitely something mildly unsettling about eating meat that hasn’t been cooked at all, and more so when it’s been hung up around the house or garden for a good few weeks.

The depths of winter is the perfect time for the more cautious among us to try our hand at curing and air-drying. The air temperature is chilly at best at the moment, so things stay reassuringly cool, especially in a place like a draughty shed or outhouse.

I’ve cured a number of things, but this was one of my most successful experiments. Bresaola is cured silverside of beef, or eye of round in the US and other countries. It’s a dense, hind quarter cut that’s seen a lot of work and is normally suited to slow cooking. It isn’t particularly good when cooked, and the chances are that the cheaper roasting joints you might find at the supermarket will be silverside, but curing it is a different matter.

The curing process is very simple. More…

Panforte di Sienna

Food & drink
Panforte di Sienna post image

So, it’s Christmas again, and that means it’s time to bake something fittingly seasonal and rich.

This year, that’s panforte di Sienna, an Italian dessert loosely resembling a cake that’s packed with fruit and nuts.

Panforte originated in Sienna in the 12th century, and is supposed to contain seventeen ingredients, to reflect the number of districts in the city, but license may be taken.

And it’s license that I’ll take, but around a fairly solid core. There must be nuts, and there must be fruit. Panforte must be rich … honey, sugar, cocoa … and it must be spicy. Mine only totals about a dozen ingredients.

It’s easy and quick to put together, and keeps very well in the fridge – up to a month. It’s best eaten in thin slivers with coffee or red wine.

A panforte will last a long time.

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