Food and drink, recipes and cooking

Chicken liver ragu

Chicken liver ragu

Chicken livers are extremely good for you. They’re a rich source of protein, packed with iron and vitamins. They’re good for your brain, good for your fertility if you’re a woman, and great recovery food after a tough workout. They should be top of the shopping list, but instead, they’re criminally underused, relegated to sad [...]

Food & drink

Anthony Bourdain’s rillettes

Anthony Bourdain’s rillettes

Rillettes is about as old-school a dish as you can get – and a tragically hard-to-find one. It gets right to the heart of what’s good: pork, pork fat, salt, and pepper. Kick off a meal with rillettes and you don’t have to wipe the plate rims, garnish the entree, or remember to keep your [...]

Food & drink

POCO Sicilian, Leeds

POCO Sicilian, Leeds

Last year, we went to Sicily. It was wonderful, a beguiling and fascinating place, riven with history, fiercely hot, passionately intense and honest. We swam in the sea from makeshift pontoons made of scaffolding, drove around the mountains and hills, stood in awe in the middle of a Roman amphitheatre, facing the spectacle of the [...]

Food & drink

Standard Sunday morning waffles

Standard Sunday morning waffles

There are several non-negotiable traditions in our family, and chief among them are Sunday morning waffles with maple syrup. Nothing else, nothing more, nothing less. Waffles and maple syrup. Ever has it been, ever shall it be. I fiddled around with a variety of recipes when we started out on this weekend ritual. I wanted [...]

Food & drink

Smoked and slow-roasted beef short ribs

Smoked and slow-roasted beef short ribs

I started cooking tonight’s dinner this morning at about half past eight, before anybody else was awake, and most importantly, before any of the neighbours had hung any washing out to dry. Short beef ribs take a long, long time to cook, and they’re at their very best when they meet a little smoke. So, [...]

Food & drink