The best of the latest cookbooks
New cookbooks reviewed and rated.
One of my favourite cook books from last year was Sumayya Usmani's brilliant Summers Under the Tamarind Tree, an intoxicating collection of Pakistani food. I've cooked from it ever since, and my copy is stuffed with bookmarks to remind me what to do next. Usmani's new book, Mountain Berries and Desert Spice is its equal, [...]
A few years' ago, there was a public health campaign warning of the dangers of heart disease. It featured a middle-aged everyman who'd let himself go, a couch potato who drank too much. At one point, Everyman shovelled the contents of an Indian takeaway container onto a plate. The message was clear - drink too much, smoke, [...]
There are a lot of broadly Middle Eastern cookery books around at the moment. In the last few months, I've cooked from Ottolenghi's peerless Jerusalem, and Levant by Anissa Helou, and now Joudie Kalla's excellent Palestine on a Plate. All of these books share a common sense of identity, of place, and of history. The [...]
Not exactly. Maybe. OK, yes. No. That's not fair. This is a book about the Holy Trinity of preserving, namely fermenting, pickling and drying. Three related but very, very different processes. Kool kids do indeed love kimchi. And rightly so. Yes, it's fashionable right now to ferment anything that doesn't move fast enough, but there's [...]
I often struggle with lunch. Sometimes, there are too many meetings and it just slips by unnoticed, and other times, I fail to prepare and end up grabbing another mediocre sandwich here or there. Other times, my planning and effort collapses as I stare down dismally into a plastic box full of whatever was left after [...]