Scottish Ecclefechan tart

Ecclefechan tart, for Burns Night

by rich on January 25, 2012

in Food & drink

Ecclefechan, a small town in the Scottish Borders is famous for a few things, including being the birthplace of both the writer Thomas Carlyle and one Archibald Arnott, Napoleon’s doctor during his extended stay on St Helena, but also, and this is slightly more pertinent for a food blog, for the Ecclefechan tart, a rich concoction of butter and dried fruits in a pastry shell.

The Ecclefechan tart isn’t a very common sight, at least outside Scotland.  Sainsbury’s attempted a revival a few years ago, with disastrous results after they tried to pitch it as an alternative to the Christmas  mince pie, as if an alternative were actually needed.

If I’m being charitable, I’d conclude that Sainsbury’s just got their marketing wrong…they should have just let the Ecclefechan tart stand on its own, not as an alternative to this or that, but as a very decent tart in its own right, which, of course, it is.

The trickiest thing about this tart is the pastry shell.  Pastry is one of those things that you’re either a natural at, or doomed to struggle with.  I’m the latter, but here goes.

Weigh 250g of plain flour into a big mixing bowl and add 125g of cubed butter and a pinch of salt.  Rub the butter into the flour, trying to be as light and deft as possible…you don’t want to overwork the pastry.  if you’re really rubbish at this, use a food processor to pulse the butter in, but, again, go easy and don’t overdo it.

More…

4 comments

There’s a lot of mystery around game…hunting it, preparing it, cooking it. It’s all a little bit impenetrable for urban dwellers like me.

Despite being essentially a city boy, I’ve cooked with game of various types for many years, but I’ve never really had much hands on experience with it, never shot or trapped anything, let alone prepared or dressed the kill.

I still haven’t shot anything, although I most certainly would (note to self: another blog post in that statement, right there!), but at least I’ve learned plenty more about handling game, thanks to a few hours in the company of David Lishman, top-notch butcher and the staff of the Ilkley Moor Vaults pub and restaurant.

David (@Butcher_Dlish on twitter) runs a staggeringly good butcher’s shop in Ilkley, with a counter packed full of some of the best meats the North has to offer.  Lishman’s pork and black pudding sausages are something to behold, and anybody who complains about not having enough time to cook needs to get hold of half a dozen or so of their steak pies for the freezer.

Lishman’s sell plenty of game, and this short course was intended as an introduction, with guidance on how to deal with it, start to finish, from plucking, through the removal of the guts, to cooking and eating it.

Now, I’ve done a few of these types of thing before, and my big complaint is that too often they’re not hands on enough.  Sure, its great watching a chef knock out a couple of easy pasta dishes, but I want to make the pasta myself.  There are no such problems on a Lishman’s event – hands on, it most certainly was.

Bloody, stinking hands, covered in feathers and various bits of pheasant gunk.

Exactly how it should be.

More…

1 comment

How much do you drink?

New Year, less booze?

by rich on January 12, 2012

in Food politics

It’s that time of year again….Christmas and New Year over and done with, and the miserable dreariness of January, work and general fatigue induced depression right back on top of us.

I started writing this on what’s widely regarded as the worst day of the year – the first Monday at the head of a full week in January, and it was raining, and there was too much to do and not enough people to do it.

These first couple of weeks in January always bring with them the crashing realisation that I’ve had something to drink every day since goodness knows when.  The normal discipline just got thrown out of the window, and night after night, there’d be a glass of wine or a beer.

Not much, never too much, but something, all the time.

Something.

I’ve given up booze for January, but I read today that that’s not likely to be worthwhile.  Better, they say, to moderate and introduce alcohol free days at least a couple of times a week.  Abstinence or detoxing in January does no physical good, and perhaps that’s true – and it does seem likely to be true – but for me and many people it’s not about the physical.

It’s about the psychology of it.

It’s about breaking a cycle, a pattern that, in retrospect, seemed horrifyingly easy to establish, one that needs breaking while it’s still easy to do, because once alcohol gets a grip, digs it’s talons into your mind and your body, it’s an absolute bastard to shift.

Many people simply don’t, and they die because of that.

More…

4 comments

Leon: Baking & Puddings, Claire Ptak & Henry Dimbleby

January 7, 2012 Books
Leon 3: Baking & Puddings

Leon is a fast food chain with a difference.  Firstly, the food is quite good, and secondly, it’s prepared on the basis that it should taste good and do you good at the same time. This, Leon: Baking & Puddings, the restaurant’s third cookbook, stretches that last point to the maximum. There are recipes in [...]

3 comments Read the full article →

Spicy leftover turkey soup

December 26, 2011 Food & drink
How to use up leftover Christmas turkey in a soup

If Christmas Day brings the biggest meal of the year, it follows that Boxing Day must leave the most leftovers. Nobody – NOBODY – gets this right. The smallest turkey is simply too big for most average Christmas dinner tables, and the size of the bird seems to have a knock-on effect on the number [...]

6 comments Read the full article →

How much for that turkey?

December 18, 2011 Food politics
What makes a turkey good, and how to buy one.

The annual task of sourcing the Christmas Day turkey normally falls to my brother, who being in the trade, knows what he’s looking for and where to get it. Sourcing the turkey and picking it up are separate tasks, and the job of actually transporting Rob’s carefully hunted prize birds usually falls to Dad. Last [...]

3 comments Read the full article →

Tasting India, by Christine Manfield

December 6, 2011 1
Christine Manfield's Tasting India

There was a piece in The Guardian this weekend that tried to divide cookbooks into two clear categories – ‘lifestyle’ books and ‘instructional’ books. Most of the celeb chef fodder falls clearly into the ‘lifestyle’ category, along with many more serious books, such as Jennifer McLagan’s book about offal.  I wrote about that one the other [...]

0 comments Read the full article →

Apple bread, baking for cold weather

November 26, 2011 Food & drink
Apple bread, from Roast Figs, Sugar Snow: Food to Warm the Soul by Diana Henry

It’s nearly December, so all the apples are in and off the trees now.  That leaves an annual problem…dealing with gluts. Luckily, I don’t have any gluts to deal with, but I do have friends who need to deal with theirs, leading to a slight over-abundance of Bramley apples.  Apple pie? Too predictable.  Baked apples? [...]

6 comments Read the full article →

Roast Figs, Sugar Snow: Food to Warm the Soul, by Diana Henry

November 23, 2011 Books
Roast Figs, Sugar Snow: Food to Warm the Soul, by Diana Henry

Hunger makes beans taste like almonds – Italian folk saying It was cold today. That feeling of winter has been creeping in for a few weeks now, the leaves piling up and swirling around the bottom of trees and against walls, things turning brown, dying, hibernating. It felt like winter, and I’ve started to cook [...]

0 comments Read the full article →